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PostSubject: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyWed Oct 05, 2011 9:59 pm

This was a thread suggested in the "What forums would you guys like to see" thread. If you guys want to ask me anything, go for it. The original suggestion offered an example of "When will X product be back in stock?" and those are usually the types of questions I get via email so this was a really great idea for a thread!

I'll start us out with an answer to a question that is becoming very common and that is regarding when we plan to do our mini fall release. We are shooting for between Monday and Weds of next week and I will post a thread in the Members Only forum when I have a firmer date AND will give you a sneak peak of the scents. I don't want to blow this up to be a major release. It is very casual with just a few scents but I want to go ahead and let you know that this will be a LIMITED RELEASE. That means, when I sell out, I probably won't make more so please plan accordingly. The reason for this is that I really need to bust a hump to get all of the winter collection items made, photographed, listed, etc. and that is going to take a great deal of my time and focus over the next few weeks. I am not sure whether or not I will even sell samples of this release since something may sell out and then a person purchasing samples wouldn't be able to come back for the full size. I am thinking I have made a sufficient quantity of the items but sometimes you guys surprise me! I may sell the sample packs and just have a caveat regarding the above.
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyWed Oct 05, 2011 10:13 pm

Dear Ms. Angela,

May I make a suggestion about your seasonal collections and products that will only be out for a limited time? Would it be possible when you restock something that's limited, could you possibly post that it's the last stocking of the season so those of us (and there are many!! LOL), Who would like an extra of something before it runs out, have a chance to get one?

I know that would help this crazy addict a lot!

Thanks dear!



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SolsticeScholar

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyWed Oct 05, 2011 10:39 pm

Could you describe your creative process for coming up with scents? Many of the scents have a story or concept associated with them. Where do you draw inspiration from? Do you come up with the story/concept first and then the perfume notes, or vice versa? How long does it generally take to create a new perfume?

I realize this is a series of related questions--haha. As someone who writes, is obsessed with literature, and teaches it, I am just fascinated by the idea of "creative process" Smile
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 3:14 pm

Thanks so much for doing this, Angela! cat

I have a practical question - I was a bit reluctant to buy your perfumes for a while because they are in a rice bran oil base. I usually try to get perfume oil with a jojoba or fractionated coconut oil base (preferably jojoba).

I know nothing about the shelf life of rice bran oil so this may be a silly question, but have you ever had a perfume go rancid? I'm asking because I love Manor perfume so much that I would hate to be without it years down the road. I realize most people use up perfume fairly quickly, but have a perfume oil that is 20 years old and still smells great - but I can never buy it again so I use it very sparingly.

Thanks again!
Katie
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 6:30 pm

Rob, this is a good idea. The reason I haven't done that before is that sometimes I don't know if I'll make additional batches or not. It all depends on the demand of a particular scent (and if there is enough demand, it'll go GC). I'm pretty much coming to the end of the line on the fall stuff. I don't plan on making anything additional except a really solid perfume restock on the 4 that are sold out. I really need to get going with the winter stuff so that is where my focus will be for the next few weeks.

SolsticeScholar - This is definitely a question that I could take a really long time answering. I'll try to provide an information rich answer that isn't too verbose.

We draw a lot of inspiration from the natural world, metaphysics, paganism, folk tales, our travels, personal experiences, history, etc. I suppose most people are inspired by literature, history, mythology and the like and if you read a lot of bios regarding influences, there seems to be a common thread for perfumer's who have a darker aesthetic. I don't want to be too vague or open-ended but there is inspiration around every turn for me. Nature, the seasons and our local region certainly play a big part.

I don't really have a set process where I have steps such as Inspiration > Scent Development > Name. Sometimes it is Scent Development > Name > Inspiration > leads to another Scent or Name inspires scent creation! It really depends on the particular perfume as every single one we've done has its own backstory.

Often times, I will have some notes in my head, like a musician thinking of chords for a song, and I will just start blending the recipe that is in my head. Then I will keep sniffing, stirring, adding additional notes and tweaking and then viola! Once I have a scent composed in that fashion, I will consider how it makes me feel, the emotion it evokes, if it is telling me a story and that story will lead to a name. For instance, I have a scent coming out for this mini release that I instantly knew I wanted to combine a few certain notes for. I had no concept or inspiration in mind at this point, just a recipe tugging at my mind to be played with. G and I wore it for several days and compared notes about how it makes us feel/what it reminds us of and we now have a back story and a name for the fragrance based on how the fragrance itself guided us. It is our own concept not really inspired by an existing thing (other than the fall but that is obvious since these collections are seasonal and do share that common thread).

We have a goal to create things that don't exist already and that aren't taken from Pop Culture, etc. We have a few things from early on that are inspired from someone else (like Cenobite, Monster Mash, Fright Night) but we really want to have our own unique names and stories like Thornwood Thicket, Manor, Lace Draped Spectre, etc. To clarify, I mean we don't plan on doing collections like "True Blood" or "Alice and Wonderland" or "Harry Potter" or "Twilight" like a lot of folks gravitate too. We don't want to have our perfumes be too contrived or gimmicky and name them ridiculous things. We have guidelines regarding what is acceptable and the direction for the future. The aforementioned is not acceptable to us, nor is throwing some random ingredients together and haphazardly sticking a name on it then listing it for sale. Each scent we create needs to have depth to it. The scents themselves might not work for everyone due to personal taste or skin chemistry, but we are committed to putting forth a quality, interesting product.

We weren't always at our current state and we've evolved significantly since we first started. At the beginning (I'm talking pre-internet 2004ish), we only offered single note or very simple essential oil combos, stock blends or very simple blends. We were more focused on candles and soaps and hadn't delved into perfume at that point, though we did have body/massage oils. Over the years we began to step outside the box and started really getting deeper into the business, feeling out which direction we wanted to go in and creating our own unique blends. This lead to more complex blends that will hopefully only get better over time, a larger variety and more unique concepts. If we do a collection, it will be seasonal or inspired by something in the natural world. We have a concept in the pipeline now that I can't elaborate on that is very much inspired by the natural world.

Other times, I will know for sure I want to tackle something specifically. For example, I knew I wanted to do Manor for the fall release. I have a strong interest in older homes with character and different styles from antebellum to cracker to Victorian, etc. Large, foreboding, abandoned homes invoke a certain blend of fear and curiosity that is relatively universal so I wanted to take all of that and wrap it up in a fragrance that contained the imagery and emotion of the concept that I felt people could understand and identify with. It is very important to me that the name, scent and description all meld together to the best of my ability. I wouldn't take a blend of fruits and sugar and haphazardly make up a story and plaster a name on it like "Manor" and think that was going to cut it. I work to make sure you have the whole package and that each scent is an experience. I want to take these fantasy-scapes and bring them to you so that when you wear Manor, you're really in the home seeing what I set forth to show you or if you're wearing Witch's Cottage, you get to experience smelling the dried herbs and baked goods and being transported.

Regardless of if a concept takes hold of me and then I work to create the scent around the concept OR if I have a scent I want to compose and its end result leads me to the name and back story, once I have a finished product the practical tests commence. Usually during the blending process I am constantly analyzing the scent for staying power and how it morphs. That is why when I sit down to write about the scent and what to expect that the impressions are so detailed and sometimes include time frames like "after 15 minutes X note starts winding down and X note begins to emerge and after 45 minutes you'll smell X but the long term dry down ends up smelling like Y". If my testing reveals absolutely no staying power in a blend, I either tweak it until it works or abandon ship. That is why most of our perfumes have a pretty decent staying power (of course it all depends on your skin chemistry but everything that I've released does last on me and G for a reasonable amount of time).

As to how long a perfume takes, it is completely unique to the blend. Sometimes I will want to put some notes together and will throw them right on my skin to get an idea of if they will blend well. Let's say they do. Then I will work in a small dish to compose a recipe and try to recreate the scent that I had on my skin. A lot of times it comes naturally like I inherently know how much of different notes to add to the blend and it only requires minimal tweaking. I've only been stumped a few times on a scent. Gehenna was one that I wanted to offer sometime last year. It was also one I had the concept for before I had a real recipe and I was trying to bring the concept to life through scent. For some reason the notes in my head absolutely wouldn't cooperate and didn't smell good at all together. I did several different recipes before Gehenna finally took shape. I actually have my recipe from last year and it had fire notes mixed with fig so needless to say it was nothing like the current incarnation. Witch's Cottage was another one that kicked my ass. I kept having trouble bringing it together and I kept going back to my massive fragrance and essential oil collection looking for the missing link. There were a few notes that ended up in the blend that became the crucial components. However, most of the time it is a fairly painless process from when I decide the type of scent I want to offer - it's just a matter of getting that recipe right in the small dish. Then I do the math and create the large batch and from there I am able to make all the products. I'd say that the blends "take as long as they take" and that is, until I'm happy with them and have gone through all the R & D with them.

When I set out to make a seasonal collection, most of the time the scents I want to make have already been discovered in the previous season, or perhaps even longer than that. I have some winter blends in my head that I discovered a few months ago. I just get bit by a bug where I have to mesh certain scents together and see if they work and if they do, I jot down the notes I used and put them in my book under the "Winter Ideas" page until it is time to start putting them together in the "dish". I keep notes of my recipes of course but also random note combinations I want to try if something comes to me. I also have several spring ideas already written down! Sometimes I will discover a note in my collection that smells so amazing I want to create an entire perfume, concept and name around IT because the scent has inspired me.

Currently I have 2 full concepts and recipes ready to go but the name is the last thing to emerge. I have them tentatively named though but anymore it seems like the name is the very last thing to come, or the last step. For a collection like the small one we have coming up: I keep a dry erase board and will write the notes and which products the scent is going to be offered in and I will just put "Unnamed 1" and "Unnamed 2" there until we have them named. We reference the dry erase board as a kind of checklist on which products still need to be finished, which ones need to be photographed, etc.

katmish - Rice bran oil contains a great deal of vitamin E and other antioxidants which contribute to a long shelf life. I can't say a hard and fast rule for how long a blend will last because the fragrance oils themselves don't have an indefinite shelf life and nor does the rice bran. There are other factors such as how the perfume is being store, what temperature it is stored at, how long with the rice bran oil at my supplier before it came to me (I know they go through it fairly quickly and I order in very small batches so mine is always fresh), how long have the fragrance and essential oils been sitting at my many suppliers' warehouses, etc. I have had some blends for a few years and nothing smells off about them at all and I have had a pink sugar and a honeysuckle (the original, not the honeysuckle green tea) as well as a aage's athenaeum go a little off after this same amount of time. The last two share a note that is purchased as a natural fragrance oil (not an essential oil but a fragrance derived from natural ingredients) and it might not have as long of a shelf life as a synthetic fragrance). I tell folks the majority of my perfumes should last them several years but nothing lasts forever, especially when blending in carrier oils versus perfumer's alcohol. Even perfumer's alcohol perfumes can smell off after a certain amount of time but they seem to hold better than carrier oils. I have had jojoba oil in my personal collection (not an oil used for SS) that went rancid on me after a few years and when that happened, I knew I didn't want to use it or sweet almond or something of that nature and the fractionated coconut oil has a weird smell to me, even though it is supposed to be fragrance free! I have also had the latter go rancid on me so I think all vegetable oils have a shelf life, some longer than others, and some perfume blends may override an off smell.

I have had fragrance oils go bad on me before too. In fact, I just tossed one that was not even a year old because it didn't smell quite right to me. There are just so many factors contributing to shelf life for any perfumer's blend.

I can guarantee nothing of mine will last 20 years. Manor is going GC so unless I have an ingredient become discontinued, I don't have any plans for it to go anywhere. So you can buy that one as necessary and we move our stock of oils pretty quickly so I don't have anything sitting on the shelves going bad. Storing away from light and heat will always prolong blends too (but I'm sure you already know that).
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Cats in the Cradle

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 7:41 pm

With that kind of thought process it is no wonder these scents stand out above the rest. I knew from my first purchase you didn't simply take a fragrance oil you purchased and describe their components. Here, you do the complete opposite. YOU feel the fragrance then you make it. Outstanding insight, thank you.
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 8:08 pm

Thank you, Cats in the Cradle. As I've indicated in our Master Scent Reference we do have a very small handful of stocks that are popular with our customers and these scents we have offered since the very start of the business but the list is tiny and we discontinued most everything that is stock or reformulated it. For instance, Nag Champa used to be stock but we reformulated it and added some very nice complimentary ingredients (EOs and FOs) that rounded out the scent and made it a lot nicer smelling than just the sharp stock oil.
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 8:09 pm

Angela, do these pants make my ass look big? rabbit

Is there a way that makes sense for SS to have the out of stock items remain on the site (as unavailable, of course) instead of disappearing? It can be hard to know what is gone forever and what is coming back soon. Keeping track of what is available in each scent isn't always easy without cross referencing the scent list, which doesn't help with facial care items.

That's my $.02, anyhow. xoxo

p.s. I like my pants. I'm keeping them.
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 8:26 pm

Thank you for your wonderful reply, Angela. It was a fascinating read and great to know more about your creation process. Now I am very intrigued about the upcoming mini-collection! I love you
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 9:00 pm

Angela, your creative process amazes me. It's a TRUE art form.... especially the way you bring your scents and ideas in to fruition.

I've been around long enough to have had hundreds of bottles of perfume oils from festivals to small head shops to etailers. Some have been good, some have been great and some of them have been god awful!

My main problem with the last group has been the lack of ability to try a scent before purchasing. I can't stand little sample imps that spill all over my fingers, leak and then having to decide which ones I like and which ones to order. Nine times out of ten, the descriptions of the scents never match my impressions (However elementary they might be.. LOL) and I'm left disappointed. From that first bottle of Spellbound Woods glace, I KNEW I 'got' you and your scents. That's why people are probably tired of me always saying that your descriptions are so spot on.

While my writing skills aren't nearly as eloquent as yours, I can say that I now know why I am drawn to your products and scents as I am. It's the work behind it, the soul put into it and the talent you have to bring them to life.





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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 9:02 pm

alicious wrote:
Angela, do these pants make my ass look big? rabbit

:: snort :: YOU madame, are a freaking NUT!

cyclops


And P.S. I usually don't have pants ON.





Last edited by Rob on Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Liber Vix

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 9:03 pm

That explanation was just brilliant, Angela! I too am really fascinated by the whole creative process and how your scents invoke places, things, events, emotions, a journey. And thank you for going into it in so much depth, it allows the customers to see all of the thought, deliberation, and insight that goes into every little bottle. I'm refreshed that you are so forthcoming and eager to dialogue with us, not distant like "these are my secret, mysterious processes, I can't tell you anything!" You could have given a vague, perfunctory answer, but you didn't. You really include us, and that is just marvelous...thank you! cat
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Rob

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 9:06 pm

Liber Vix wrote:
That explanation was just brilliant, Angela! I too am really fascinated by the whole creative process and how your scents invoke places, things, events, emotions, a journey. And thank you for going into it in so much depth, it allows the customers to see all of the thought, deliberation, and insight that goes into every little bottle. I'm refreshed that you are so forthcoming and eager to dialogue with us, not distant like "these are my secret, mysterious processes, I can't tell you anything!" You could have given a vague, perfunctory answer, but you didn't. You really include us, and that is just marvelous...thank you! cat

Well said!! cheers

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 9:13 pm

Thanks so much for the answer, Angela - much appreciated. And I also enjoyed reading how you create your scents - I appreciate you taking the time to explain it. It's fascinating!
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alicious

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 9:57 pm

Rob wrote:
alicious wrote:
Angela, do these pants make my ass look big? rabbit

:: snort :: YOU madame, are a freaking NUT!

cyclops


And P.S. I usually don't have pants ON.



What? It's "Ask Angela," after all, you pantsless wonder! Very Happy

"If you change your mind
I'm the first in line
Honey I'm still free
Wear some pants with me..."


OK, I need a nap. tongue
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyThu Oct 06, 2011 11:54 pm

alicious wrote:
Rob wrote:
alicious wrote:
Angela, do these pants make my ass look big? rabbit

:: snort :: YOU madame, are a freaking NUT!

cyclops


And P.S. I usually don't have pants ON.



What? It's "Ask Angela," after all, you pantsless wonder! Very Happy

"If you change your mind
I'm the first in line
Honey I'm still free
Wear some pants with me..."


OK, I need a nap. tongue

ROTFLMAO!!!
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Cats in the Cradle

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyFri Oct 07, 2011 6:53 am

alicious wrote:
Angela, do these pants make my ass look big? rabbit



p.s. I like my pants. I'm keeping them.

LMAO!
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptySat Oct 08, 2011 11:48 am

Thank you so much for your kind comments, guys. Liber Vix, I appreciate your sentiments as well. I think part of the experience with us is to build a relationship and trust with our customers so you know you're in good hands (it can be so scary purchasing online) and we also find that building those relationships increases our repeat customer rate exponentially! It means a lot when people shop with us and we take it as a great compliment when we see people coming back again and again. It's also really fun to get to know our customers so creating this forum was a natural process since it meshes so well with how I like to interact with our customers. I'm happy to share the creative process and other things with you guys! I think it is cool that you want to get to know the other side of the business in addition to just enjoying the products.

alicious, I see what you mean about keeping the OOS stuff available. I will consider that for the seasonal collections where I plan on restocking the items that sell out anyway. When it comes to the rest of the products, I let them go OOS because when someone new comes to the site, I don't want them to think a general catalog ganache they see OOS might actually be coming back in stock soon. Since I rotate a lot of the soap, whipped soap, ganache, glace, etc. offerings, I don't want something I have no plans of stocking soon sitting on the site and people emailing asking when it will be available again. I don't mind when you guys ask me "when will you have toners back?" etc. AT ALL but I think those questions would increase if I had lots of OOS items listed. I like to have control over which GC items are available at a time. If something isn't selling well, I want to retire it for a while and bring it back at a later date and that kind of thing. I also can only produce so much so that is another reason that we have only so many things available from the GC at one time. I do think your suggestion could work really well for seasonal collections though and will strongly consider it!
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptySat Oct 08, 2011 12:09 pm

Thank you for explaining, Angela. I've wondered why, and figured you must have a reason...and you do! Very Happy
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptySat Oct 08, 2011 1:07 pm

Thanks for taking the time to explain your creative process Angela! I can totally see the labor of love that goes into each creation!
A suggestion for keeping the products/scents listed - perhaps you could have a reference page? Things that were produced in the past but are not currently available? I realize this might still have some inherent difficulties if people didn't read the page to realize that it was for reference only.
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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptySat Oct 08, 2011 1:19 pm

We do have a Master Scent Reference that could be helpful. I haven't updated it to include our fall collection though! Embarassed
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lov2read68




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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptySat Oct 08, 2011 1:47 pm

I obviously haven't spent enough time poking around the website yet! I think maybe just adding dates to when the scents were available would be great! But I also realize that you have the same 24 hrs in your day that I do!

Thanks for the link! My wishlist just grew exponentially!!
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SolsticeScholar

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyMon Oct 10, 2011 9:10 pm

Angela--Is there any way you would consider offering Enchanted Forest as a perfume oil again? I love this scent so much. I found that the salts and soap really help with sinuses and headaches and is just a gorgeous woodsy scent overall. Perhaps if I beg and plead. Wink
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Rob

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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyMon Oct 10, 2011 9:18 pm

SolsticeScholar wrote:
Angela--Is there any way you would consider offering Enchanted Forest as a perfume oil again? I love this scent so much. I found that the salts and soap really help with sinuses and headaches and is just a gorgeous woodsy scent overall. Perhaps if I beg and plead. Wink

LOL!!! I just saw your post on the EF reference about wanting the oil and I was just going to post here that you should bed, plead, offer a relative for trade, etc., and maybe she will!
Twisted Evil


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PostSubject: Re: "Ask Angela"    "Ask Angela"  EmptyMon Oct 10, 2011 9:29 pm

Rob wrote:
SolsticeScholar wrote:
Angela--Is there any way you would consider offering Enchanted Forest as a perfume oil again? I love this scent so much. I found that the salts and soap really help with sinuses and headaches and is just a gorgeous woodsy scent overall. Perhaps if I beg and plead. Wink

LOL!!! I just saw your post on the EF reference about wanting the oil and I was just going to post here that you should bed, plead, offer a relative for trade, etc., and maybe she will!
Twisted Evil



Is that a typo on "bed, plead,...." or do you mean "beg, plead..."???? Question Question Question
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